WAVES

Trujillo and Thurman 10^th, Chapter 8

Be sure to read boxes 8.1 (Rogue Waves) and 8.2 (Waves of Destruction). Omit the following sections: 8.2 (How do waves move?) and 8.7 (Power from waves) as well as smaller

pieces about transitional waves, interference patterns, capillary waves, factors effecting wave energy, and wave reflection

Objectives: students should be able to

1. describe the characteristics of waves
2. discuss the differences between deep and shallow water waves
3. describe the interaction between waves and coastlines
4. discuss the causes and effects of tsunamis
5. describe the formation of internal waves

Wind-generated waves

Characteristics

• Crest, trough, wavelength, wave height, wave steepness, wave period
• Circular motion of water molecules

Deep water waves

• Precise definition
• Sea vs. swell
• What determines wave height and wave speed?

Shallow water waves

• Precise definition
• Varieties of surf
• What determines wave speed?
• Wave refraction along irregularly shaped coastlines – cause and effect

Other ocean waves

• tsunamis: causes and effects
• Internal waves