Beaches and Shoreline Processes: Trujillo
and Thurman, 10th , Chapter
10
Be sure to read Boxes 10.1 (Rip Currents) and 10.2
(Cape Hatteras Lighthouse). Omit section
10.5 on characteristics of US coastlines
Students should be able to
1. discuss
the causes of sealevel changes
2. describe
types of coastlines
3. very
specifically describe the features of a beach and a barrier island
4. discuss
how water movements along coastlines affect sediment location
5.
discuss selected impacts that
humans have had along coastlines
Global: eustatic; water volume changes or changes in shape of ocean basins
Local: tectonic changes or isostatic changes
CLASSIFICATION
OF COASTS
Submerging (drowned beaches and dunes) vs. emerging
(stranded beach deposits)
Erosional (rocky shores as example) vs. depositional (barrier islands and deltas as examples)
BEACHES
Variety of sediments
Physical features: backshore, foreshore, nearshore, offshore; berm, beach face, longshore bars
Erosion vs. deposition on beaches: summer vs. winter; longshore processes
Water circulation: longshore current; rip currents
Human interaction:
Hard structures: dams, groins, jetties, breakwaters, seawalls, jetties, groins, breakwaters
Other approaches: replenishment/renourishment; regulations
BARRIER
ISLANDS
Salt Marsh: zoning of salt tolerant plants; unusual sediment; high marsh vs. low marsh
Migration of barrier islands with sea level changes